Phase 4, Day 4. St Charles, MO- Cambria, IL

117 miles.  Rural southern Illinois is beautiful. 

I hit the Katy Trail for one last fling and discovered the last 14 miles east of St Charles is not very popular or well maintained. I passed the "Low Point 470ft" sign and had to walk the bike through what seemed to be a recently flooded area. Not wet but the trail was washed out. The other 200+ miles of Katy Trail west of St Charles is highly recommended however.

I gave St Louis a wide berth to the north and found my way to the nearest bridge to take me across the Mississippi River to Alton, Illinois.  Riding a bike over a major highway bridge is always a gamble. I check if bikes are allowed but never certain how sketchy things might be. I was happy and bit surprised to see an actual bike lane on this bridge. Crossing the river was quite a milestone for me...a sort of west-to-east transition.  I know the bike has taken me a long way but crossing the mighty Mississippi felt like a real accomplishment.

I read a book in college that has stuck with me. "Old Glory" is an incredible story of John Raban's experience guiding his tiny aluminum outboard motor boat from Minnesota to Louisiana down the entire length of the Mississippi. I was amazed how a guy with just a tiny boat and a bit of ambition could have such an incredible adventure. I thought of John during the 10 miles riding along the river levee bike path past the enormous locks that he described so well.

Rails-to-Trails programs are big here. There are a lot of abandoned rail lines and now, thankfully, there are a lot of bike trails that follow them...mostly paved. So nice to spend another 25 miles on more glorious bike paths eventually ending up in Marine, Illinois. A random place out in the middle of corn country but what the heck.  It was a good ride.

From Marine it was another wig-wag through the most beautiful countryside. I try not to have expectations when visiting a new spot. I don't know what you imagine southern Illinois to be like but it blew me away. Gently rolling hills with wooded areas and silos dotting the horizon. Bright and full of color. It looked like a painting.

About 40 miles on country backroads was quiet and serene. The planning was good except for a 1 mile stretch on deep graveled Beaver Rd.  Don't know how I missed that with the planning but I enjoyed the walking and made friends with a lost possum who was clearly in the wrong time zone.

When you are riding a bike along a rural road the drivers sometimes wave, sometimes don't. When I'm somewhere new I don't wave first..I like to test the waving climate. In Wyoming they liked to wave, Nebraska too.  Kansas and Missouri didn't have much waving. Now in Illinois we're back to waving again. I like the wave...sort of like they're saying "Hey! Welcome". At least that's how I imagine it.

Staying in Cambria, IL. Population 13,000, and "Home to James Brady" the sign says.  Cambria is a farm town of good size and as usual the folks are very friendly. It's a very American Mom-and-Apple Pie sort of place.  I like Cambria.

Tomorrow another 100 miler to Princeton, Indiana. What? We're already done with Illinois?  I was really liking it here.