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Thursday, July 4, 2013

Phase 2, Day 3. Farson - Lander, WY

A very slow 77 miles. I can't believe the wonky wheel made it! A real victory and a wonderful day.

Today was a great day. After a good night's sleep and a full belly I felt better about my chances for the ride to Lander. Worst case I break down and thumb a ride to Lander, right?

Super nervous running 77 miles on a wheel held together with Duct Tape, literally, but treated it with care for the 6 hour ride. Avoiding stress on the rear wheel was the order of the day so careful when shifting gears, avoiding bumps, climbing in a super low gear and keeping the speed at 20mph on the downhill was the rule. I'm not good at any of that so the 5000' of climbing and 8000' descending was challenging but we made it. Shouting a few encouraging words to the wheel helped..I think.

It was an awesome ride. At about mile 35 I felt committed and finally started to relax about the wobbly wheel. The slow climb through the prairie toward the Continental Divide was very nice with some more roadside Pony Express/Mormon Emigrant Trail markers to check out.

Did you know Wyoming was the first state in the union to allow women to vote? 1867. This unlikely place for a suffrage movement was started by a miner/bar-keep in Atlantic City, WY, a mining town along the Pony Express route. I wanted to visit Atlantic City today but it was 5 miles along a bumpy dirt road and the bad rear wheel was the focus of my day. Too bad.
A popular trail  once upon a time but no other cyclists for many days. 
The first half of the day was a very gentle uphill climbing between the Wind River Range and Antelope Hills. There were plenty of antelope racing me along the road all morning but at only 15 mph I was left in their dust...I wanted to race too but couldn't. Damn wheel.

For 3 hours I was climbing toward the Continental Divide along the Big Sandy River flowing west toward the Pacific Ocean. At mile 35 I crossed the Divide and 15 minutes later caught up with the Sweetwater River flowing east toward the Atlantic. A memorable experience for me.

Along this whole journey, and particularly today, I've learned a real appreciation for the hardy pioneers emigrating across the endless prairie and up and over countless mountain passes. What takes me day on a bicycle could have taken those brave soles a week, or more, to cover.
Unmarked pioneer graves.



You would think crossing the Divide would mean it's downhill from there? I did. Turns out the road keeps climbing another 1000' to 8400' flanking the south end of the still snow-capped Wind River Range as it climbs out of the arid prairie and into the mountains. Once again I was surrounded by green grass meadows and beautiful flower-lined streams. The last long climb, despite the bad wheel and slow pace, was worth it.

Rolled into Lander and was elated that the bad wheel didn't fail me today. Lander was celebrating July 4th in old west style: BBQ and rodeo. I met some other bikers today at the BBQ who are heading west to Seattle. Certainly not on my "Pony Express" route which, as it turns out, isn't very popular. Seems I'm blazing a trail. They are all sleeping in the dirt and couldn't agree when they last showered so I offered them my motel shower. 6 guys showed up. We had fun sharing stories in my very small motel room while they each had a turn taking a shower. I don't think of myself as fancy but today I felt a bit like a diva with my motel shower and clean towels and what not.

Tomorrow is another long 130 mile day to Alcova. I would prefer to leave again at sunrise but can't press-on until the bike shop opens at 10am. Bicycle Repairman Thomas promised to meet me and fix up the wheel so I can be on on my way by 11. It will be hot again but generally downhill from here...I hope.







3 comments:

  1. I really missed you today on the 4th but I am glad you had a good day and the bike held up. I like how you offered your shower, that is funny you had 'fancy' digs. I also love the pictures it looks really peaceful and remote. Miss you

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  2. Glad the wheel held up Ben and you didn't have to stick your thumb out. Yes, very cool you offered your shower to all the guys..

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  3. Ben you are one tough trooper! Many guys would have bagged the ride with the cracked frame. Then breaking a spoke, then another, wow! Crazy, all your planning...someone once said to me "life is what happens in between your plans". Keep doing what you do rolling with the punches (excuse the pun). I am riding vicariously through your words and its a great ride!
    Danny

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